About a month ago, my Samsung SyncMaster 226BW began experiencing slight flickering with the screen. It became progressively worse and worse as the weeks went on, and finally it was at the point where it would take 5-10 minutes to ‘warm up’ and shake loose the flickering screen.

Not only was it concerning, but it was just plain annoying having the screen ‘seizure flash’ you. So, I started researching for a possible fix without buying a new monitor of course, I figured it must have been something cheap to fix. Well I uncovered that these monitors (as well as many other Samsung models + TVs) all suffered from the same woe. Bad Caps! Bad Capacitors were to blame for the flickering.

I started with the monitor, and laying it ‘face’ down on a towel to reduce the chance of damage to the LCD and opening it up to take a look:


and looked around the power board for bulging capacitors, and I found 2 of a possible 3 that I should replace:

Getting started here are all the tools you need:
Solder, soldering iron, 3 capacitors (2x 820UF 25V + 1x 330UF 25V)

You can purchase the needed capacitors at Mouser Electronics. Also I purchased my soldering iron and solder at my local Chicago Harbor Freight which ended up totaling me $25 bucks which is pretty cheap for a task that fixed an originally purchased ~$200 monitor that is 2 years out of warranty.

Anyway, after replacement, here is what the job looks like finished, and my monitor is now back in working condition!

In the end, this venture cost me less than $25 dollars, and only 30 minutes of actual hands on work. If you are saying to yourself “eh I can’t possibly do this”, well don’t worry this is VERY simple, just go step by step, detaching the old caps from the board is as easy as heating the points on the back of the board, and wiggling/pulling the caps loose. Its difficult to damage anything if you simply just pull the board out and work slowly watching not to clip anything.

Enjoy! If you have any questions or comments, post below.

52 Comments to “Repairing a Samsung SyncMaster 226BW (bad capacitors and flickering)”

  1. ebpDoug | September 23rd, 2013 at 11:37 AM

    I highly recommend the Panasonic FR series for this sort of replacement. They have excellent specifications – very long lifetime, very low equivalent series resistance (ESR) and high ripple current rating, all of which are important in this sort of application. They are a little overpriced from some vendors, alas.
    I have repaired several monitors of various brands, and one common issue is capacitor physical size. Most of the “larger” capacitors are 10mm x 20mm case size, and bigger types may not fit. I’ve seen several monitors that use 1000uF 25V caps in 10x20mm, and it is difficult to find these in high-quality capacitors. Actual capacitance is often not very important in this sort of circuit. The critical characteristics of ESR and ripple current rating tend to go with the can size, so using lower capacitance (e.g. as little as half the capacitance; certainly using 820uF instead of 1000uF is of no consequence) in the same can size is almost always perfectly acceptable WITH HIGH QUALITY CAPACITORS. During design it is common to select vastly more capacitance than is actually required, just to get the ESR and ripple current ratings within requirements. I’ve designed switchers where I’ve use about 10 times the “required” capacitance, just to meet the requirements for ESR, ripple current and lifetime.

  2. Funking Dave | November 5th, 2013 at 9:12 PM

    I just got one used (took a chance on it) and it won’t even power on. Do you think this might solve the problem.
    If you still watch this board please email me at funkingdave (at) gmail (dot) com so that I can know to continue looking further or not.

    PS: I will try this fix anyway, I was just wondering if there was somewhere else I should be looking.

    Dave Rice

  3. David | September 21st, 2014 at 1:16 PM

    Awesome tip! Solved my samsung sa850 24″ that was flickering. Replaced the largest of the caps on the incoming 14v on the motherboard.

  4. Joao Paulo | October 2nd, 2014 at 12:04 PM

    First of all, thank you” I now am a happier hobbyist, and i need not to purchase a new monitor.
    Second, curiously enough, my 226bw (made in jan2008) has 3x 820 + 1x 330. Having bought the 2+1 you show here, i only replaced those, and left one of the blown 820. So far so good, the monitor “powers up” like new. Will replace the other caspacitor when i have a chance (time).

  5. bjornie | March 5th, 2015 at 10:47 AM

    Thanks, new caps in the mail!

  6. Grusome | March 10th, 2015 at 9:49 PM

    This did not work for me. soldered two new capacitors no luck now the screen is completly blank no power whatsoever. Disapointed. What can be wrong????????

  7. Grusome | March 10th, 2015 at 9:56 PM

    Actually my appologies it worked there is magnet that needs to be cliped to the outside wall of the metall plate in order to work. Very happy camper thank a lot guys

  8. J Bart | March 19th, 2015 at 6:15 PM

    Mine went 7 years before the flicker. Had 2 bad 820’s. Done in 30 minutes.

  9. Patrick | February 1st, 2016 at 10:54 AM

    Thanks, a few more years for my 2007 226BW after replacing the 2x 820UF capacitors. Note, check the height of the capacitors before ordering, you need 10mm X 20mm with lead spacing 5mm.

  10. Shaf | July 2nd, 2016 at 12:51 PM

    There are multiple Revisions of the Power Board mine is 226BW rev 0.0, which is the different than shown in mosdt examples, in my case I had to replace 5 820uF Caps at C316,C317, C111,C112,C114 and 330uF at C113. It appears that C113 is not used on later board revisions.

  11. Zilvermuis | July 7th, 2016 at 11:06 AM

    I read some other article the guy said to change all the capacitors because you have a chance another will go bad in a few months. Also make sure the shaded part of the capacitor is on the right side. It marks also on the print plate where this side should be, its been marked darker.

  12. John M | July 10th, 2016 at 4:45 PM

    My 226BW lasted 9 years before being possessed by the flicker demon. Two new 820’s are on the way. Thanks!

  13. Radu M | January 19th, 2017 at 9:19 AM

    Just fixed my 226BW rev 0.0. Just like Shaf, my board has 5 820uF and one 330uF. I replaced them with 4x820uF, 1x1000uF and one 330uF (they only had four 820uF left at the shop).
    I got rid of flickering during warm up (used to take up to 5 minutes to warm up). Works just like new.
    Note that my monitor is 9 years old, and has 23.000 hours on.

    Thanks for the post guys 😀

  14. Keith | February 9th, 2017 at 5:24 PM

    Same problem here. already ordered 2 X 820UF @ 25v + 1 X 330UF @ 25V

    It also seems looking at the circuit that these capacitors cant really handle the current surge when turning on the monitor so maybe that is whats causing them to fail. The 330UF @25V capacitor is still intact while the 2 X 820UF @25V both have failed and the middle one (C111 as on PCB) has ruptured at the top. Anyway got these capacitors arriving early next week. Oh and thanks for the info, really helps out a lot.

  15. Rob | June 15th, 2017 at 9:38 AM

    This worked great. I have two 226BW monitors which I bought at the same time which are now over 10 years old. Both were affected by this problem and now are as good as the day I bought them. Thanks for a great guide.

  16. Steve | June 27th, 2017 at 4:29 PM

    About ready to try this myself, just wanted to ask if anyone had advice on a specific solder to use.

    Thank much!

  17. Yagiz Sonmezer | July 7th, 2017 at 3:10 PM

    Thank you very much

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